Post by abster82 on Nov 21, 2005 0:19:42 GMT -5
Ball Python Care Sheet
Enclosure:
When selecting an enclosure make sure that it is as close to 100% escape proof as possible. Snakes are great escape artist and the ball python is stronger at pushing its way out than you may think. There are many types of enclosures available from companies who build reptile cages such as Animal Plastics, Freedom Breeder, or Vision. Plastic sweater boxes such as Sterilite or Rubbermaid can also make good cages; just remember to add air holes. The more things that are placed in the enclosure means the more things that need to be cleaned and sterilized so think before adding. A juvenile can be happily housed in a smaller sized enclosure than an adult ball python. The more secure the animal feels the better pet it will make in the long run. An adult is able to live comfortably in an enclosure that is 36”x18”x12”. If a cage is purchased with a screen top make sure that it is lockable and beware that it is harder to maintain proper humidity levels with screen top because moisture is able to escape easily.
Substrate:
Newspaper is the cheapest and easiest in my opinion. It is easy to clean, throw out the used papers and add fresh sheets. Cypress can be used to help control humidity, remember that to much or too little humidity can be dangerous for the animal. It is important to always know what the levels are in your enclosures and adjust them as necessary 50-60%.
***NEVER use anything containing Cedar, this is toxic to reptiles and can kill your snake. ***
Lighting:
There is nothing saying that supplemental lighting is necessary for this species. If lighting is provided in an enclosure it should run on a 12/12 cycle. This simply means 12 hours on 12 hours off to mimic day and night. Constant light is stressful on the animal which can be detrimental to its overall health. The ball python is nocturnal meaning it’s active at night, when it’s dark.
Water:
You and I can not survive without water and neither can your snake. Fresh clean water should always be supplied. This simply means change the water on a regular basis and as needed. Some snakes use their bowls to soak in especially during shed cycles so make sure the bowl is large enough to fit the snake. A juvenile does not require an extreme amount of water less than 1 inch will work just fine. We use medium sized ceramic dog dishes. Spare bowls do come in handy when you have to sterilize a dish due to it’s just that time, or the snake decided it was a toilet.
Humidity:
Proper humidity levels can not be stressed enough for the overall health of your ball python. A range between 50% and 60% is ideal. There are different ways of creating the proper humidity level, cypress mulch/shavings can be used as a substrate since when damp it turns a nice rich brown and when dry it gets a tan shade (same color is was before it was ever misted). This is a visual aid in seeing that the cage is dry and it needs to be misted. Another way is having a humidity box which is simple to make. A plastic container and damp sphagnum moss, place a hole in either the top or side of the box and place in the enclosure. The snake should be able to enter and exit as it wishes.
Temperature/Heating
***Do not guess the Temperature, know for sure***
There are many ways that one is able to heat an enclosure, some cages are built with belly heat already installed or you can purchase belly heat pad. Human heating pads are not acceptable and should not be used. Pet shops sell bulbs made for creating heat/basking spots. If using a bulb make sure to have a day bulb and either a red or blue bulb for night. The snake should not be able to make contact with the bulb as it will burn the snake. NEVER USE HEAT ROCKS!! Heat rocks can burn the snake without the snake knowing it is being hurt.
Temperatures:
Ambient (background) 78-80 F Temperature should not fall below 75 F
Basking spot 88-92 F
When using a heat emitter or bulb it is necessary to keep an eye on the humidity level because bulbs will dry the air in the enclosure and the screen top will allow moisture and heat to escape.
**Written by stunningscales.com**
Enclosure:
When selecting an enclosure make sure that it is as close to 100% escape proof as possible. Snakes are great escape artist and the ball python is stronger at pushing its way out than you may think. There are many types of enclosures available from companies who build reptile cages such as Animal Plastics, Freedom Breeder, or Vision. Plastic sweater boxes such as Sterilite or Rubbermaid can also make good cages; just remember to add air holes. The more things that are placed in the enclosure means the more things that need to be cleaned and sterilized so think before adding. A juvenile can be happily housed in a smaller sized enclosure than an adult ball python. The more secure the animal feels the better pet it will make in the long run. An adult is able to live comfortably in an enclosure that is 36”x18”x12”. If a cage is purchased with a screen top make sure that it is lockable and beware that it is harder to maintain proper humidity levels with screen top because moisture is able to escape easily.
Substrate:
Newspaper is the cheapest and easiest in my opinion. It is easy to clean, throw out the used papers and add fresh sheets. Cypress can be used to help control humidity, remember that to much or too little humidity can be dangerous for the animal. It is important to always know what the levels are in your enclosures and adjust them as necessary 50-60%.
***NEVER use anything containing Cedar, this is toxic to reptiles and can kill your snake. ***
Lighting:
There is nothing saying that supplemental lighting is necessary for this species. If lighting is provided in an enclosure it should run on a 12/12 cycle. This simply means 12 hours on 12 hours off to mimic day and night. Constant light is stressful on the animal which can be detrimental to its overall health. The ball python is nocturnal meaning it’s active at night, when it’s dark.
Water:
You and I can not survive without water and neither can your snake. Fresh clean water should always be supplied. This simply means change the water on a regular basis and as needed. Some snakes use their bowls to soak in especially during shed cycles so make sure the bowl is large enough to fit the snake. A juvenile does not require an extreme amount of water less than 1 inch will work just fine. We use medium sized ceramic dog dishes. Spare bowls do come in handy when you have to sterilize a dish due to it’s just that time, or the snake decided it was a toilet.
Humidity:
Proper humidity levels can not be stressed enough for the overall health of your ball python. A range between 50% and 60% is ideal. There are different ways of creating the proper humidity level, cypress mulch/shavings can be used as a substrate since when damp it turns a nice rich brown and when dry it gets a tan shade (same color is was before it was ever misted). This is a visual aid in seeing that the cage is dry and it needs to be misted. Another way is having a humidity box which is simple to make. A plastic container and damp sphagnum moss, place a hole in either the top or side of the box and place in the enclosure. The snake should be able to enter and exit as it wishes.
Temperature/Heating
***Do not guess the Temperature, know for sure***
There are many ways that one is able to heat an enclosure, some cages are built with belly heat already installed or you can purchase belly heat pad. Human heating pads are not acceptable and should not be used. Pet shops sell bulbs made for creating heat/basking spots. If using a bulb make sure to have a day bulb and either a red or blue bulb for night. The snake should not be able to make contact with the bulb as it will burn the snake. NEVER USE HEAT ROCKS!! Heat rocks can burn the snake without the snake knowing it is being hurt.
Temperatures:
Ambient (background) 78-80 F Temperature should not fall below 75 F
Basking spot 88-92 F
When using a heat emitter or bulb it is necessary to keep an eye on the humidity level because bulbs will dry the air in the enclosure and the screen top will allow moisture and heat to escape.
**Written by stunningscales.com**